Mods Please move this post to a more appropriate thread.
Time consuming but not too difficult trick is to thin the CR cage then open up the spacer (required) and intake.
I used an 88 cage (80?-94 should be the same). It has 3 petals per side, and identical bolt holes versus the Blaster cage.
Use the edge of a lapping plate to make the cage
1mm overlap minimum(cage to bottom reed/ bottom reed to top) Don't do like I did and accidentally grind the top reed to show a hairline crack. Now I have to get some 0.5mm (maybe thinner) carbon fiber laminate and cut my own reed to go on top of the Boyesen bottom reed.
If you are able to get some 1/8 or 1/4 inch aluminum plate tig welded to the outside of the intake beforehand it is preferred.
The I port matched the Blaster/Moose intake boot to the cage and insert, others may use the CR125 boot which handles 30-35mm carbs nicely, or even toss the cage stuffer/insert. the choice is yours although I prefer to keep the insert as it is supposed to help with throttle response, and lower rpm/flow rates. Removing it can have a bad effect particularly if you have a weak intake signal.
This is a pretty common mod more detailed info reguarding technique and reed choice can be found with Google.
The stock blaster cage has petal area and peak flow rate similar to a 20 somehing HP 80cc dirt bike.
The CR cage used here is designed for 125cc engines making 30+HP and is much more suitable for a modded Blaster engine. The CR125 cage is said to perform better than the Vforce 4 cage for the Blaster and can be found for $20 or less with reeds ,stuffer, and sometimes even the stops or carb boot. Even If you were to pay someone to fit the cage you still have a more effective mod and likely for less initial cost, definitely less long term cost because reeds for this cage can be had for as little as $20-$25.
The better 240cc (20% larger) big bore jugs use a 250cc reed cage that can easily handle in excess of 40-50hp.
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