How's the head gasket? Have you done a leak down test?
Yamaha banshee overheating issue
Hi..I'm new to this group and I have a 1995 Yamaha banshee with a full pro circuit exhaust,vforce 4 reeds and cage,...was told it has some porting and polish work done to it but I can't say honestly if that's true...and I run air box with no lid...but I have an issue with it getting hot after bashing for about 20 minutes..I'll hear a boiling sound and I noticed the over flow tank was lower after the run..I can fullt trace where the leak is coming from ... I don't have no milky oil so I don't have a cross contamination situation..I did see some antifreeze coming from the clutch cover under where the pump is but I pulled off the 3 screw cover and the metal pump cover wasn't leaking..any help would be helpful 😞
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I haven't done any kind of leak down testing..but I keep hearing banshee's are known for running hot and sometimes if you think that it's overheating in reality it's not..so I keep getting mixed signalsHow's the head gasket? Have you done a leak down test?
Shouldn't be leaking coolant through from clutch cover. Might have to pull that cover off and inspect water pump, and seals.I haven't done any kind of leak down testing..but I keep hearing banshee's are known for running hot and sometimes if you think that it's overheating in reality it's not..so I keep getting mixed signals
I hear ppl switch to all aluminum propeller and gear and say it tends to run cooler opinions??Shouldn't be leaking coolant through from clutch cover. Might have to pull that cover off and inspect water pump, and seals.
The propellers are usually aluminum anyways, at least for the liquid cooled dirt bikes and quads I've rebuilt. But I'd deff pull cover off and go through water pump and gaskets and seals.I hear ppl switch to all aluminum propeller and gear and say it tends to run cooler opinions??
Could also be jetted lean and just overheating. How do the plugs look? What jets are in the carbs? Whats the compression and ignition timing? Lots of variables if you didn't build the machine.
Right side is 124..and left is 105 to 110..jets idk..plugs are a darker color..timing idk..I've been told that the banshee's run hot..and some ppl switched to a aluminum pump setup..with gear and propeller and cleared that up..it's definitely not running lean....couple of my buddies own shops and say the OEM pump's wear out due to being plastic and alot of the time thats the issue..I haven't got to inspect the pump yet thoughCould also be jetted lean and just overheating. How do the plugs look? What jets are in the carbs? Whats the compression and ignition timing? Lots of variables if you didn't build the machine.
Banshee's OEM pump is plastic gear and propeller and wear outThe propellers are usually aluminum anyways, at least for the liquid cooled dirt bikes and quads I've rebuilt. But I'd deff pull cover off and go through water pump and gaskets and seals.
Wow a plastic propeller! Yea either way your gonna have to pop cover off and check internals out.Banshee's OEM pump is plastic gear and propeller and wear out
It's on my to due listWow a plastic propeller! Yea either way your gonna have to pop cover off and check internals out.
Woww why would they use plastic coolant propeller ??It's on my to due list
About time to freshen it up anyway. Over 10% variance isn't good.Right side is 124..and left is 105 to 110..
Banshees don't "run hotter" than any other typical two stroke as long as you keep air moving through the radiator.
high engine heat comes from too low a NGK plug #, too high compression, too lean jetting, and too advanced ignition. And if the squish band isn't ideal then that allows the piston to run hotter.
What degree in timing should it be at?? And what plug number does the banshee recommend??high engine heat comes from too low a NGK plug #, too high compression, too lean jetting, and too advanced ignition. And if the squish band isn't ideal then that allows the piston to run hotter.
just retard the timing until you start to lose some bottom end power.
The plug itself shows if its too hot or cold by where the color transition happens on the ground electrode. Too hot and the transition is closer to the threads than it is to the end of the electrode. If that is the case then increase the plug #.
The plug itself shows if its too hot or cold by where the color transition happens on the ground electrode. Too hot and the transition is closer to the threads than it is to the end of the electrode. If that is the case then increase the plug #.
Need to know more about your setup to tell you where to set timing. Typically +4* advanced is OK. Id set it at 0 to be safe. Run an 8 series plug.What degree in timing should it be at?? And what plug number does the banshee recommend??
According to the previous owner it's has port an polish work done but I can't confirm that..pro circuit full exhaust, vforce 4 reeds and cage,airbox no lid, tor's deleted,, currently running BR8es plugsNeed to know more about your setup to tell you where to set timing. Typically +4* advanced is OK. Id set it at 0 to be safe. Run an 8 series plug.
With those mods, deff take a look at your jetting.According to the previous owner it's has port an polish work done but I can't confirm that..pro circuit full exhaust, vforce 4 reeds and cage,airbox no lid, tor's deleted,, currently running BR8es plugs
Really with that big of a difference in compression you need to tear it down to freshen it up anyway. That’s bad on a twin. Those plugs are fine. I prefer non resistors though.
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