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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
for starters im new to the forum, i have an ez-go golf cart powered by a early 70s rotax 503 sled motor. i made an exhaust water injection system using two washer pumps, and a small devils own water/meth nozzle (i think 5 gph). i got the ideo from this article Water Injection but it didnt do much for me.

so my idea is to put the nozzle on the intake side and see what injecting 100% methanol would do. the mist looks pretty fine with two washer pumps (probably like 10-15 psi?). a few questions i have are has anyone tried this, is there any potential problems this could cause, should i run the methonal with a very lean mix of oil, will i even gain any power?

the thing just barely does a wheelie as it is and im just looking for a little more power to really hang the front wheels up. any input is welcome.
 

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have it ported..
 

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Why not buy or convert the carb to meth and just run all alcohol?
 

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injecting a meth/oil mix into the intake tract cant hurt anything.its probably not going to do anything more than richen the motor up and not make any more power if any.if you want power from meth than run it in thew gas tank and tune the carb for meth...huge jets
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yea, it probably wont do anything.

how much does porting normally cost for a twin? another thing i may consider is a bigger carb, i run a single mikuni 36mm round slide, does that seem a bit small to you guys? could i have it bored or is there no room left on these carbs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
how about miling the heads for higher compression, good idea or no? i belive the compression is around 8:1 on these stock right? could i get away with more on 93?

i could probably get the carb bored and the heads milled for realy cheap since my brother works at an atv shop, so these mods definetly would fit my budget.
 

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get a set of twin carbs on it or bore the stocker,i think you can go to 38mm and take a little off the head the 503 porting is pretty much where you want it to be stock.you could enlarge the exhuast port a little,i ran a 503 in a watercross sled it was an early 80s model with twin carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i doubt i could fit twin carbs. gotta remember that its in a golf cart, unless the manifolds were very short i doubt i could clear the shift linkage on the diff, and i don't really have room for a second intake and filter because of the exhaust.

i wasn't sure if the 36 was the biggest bore for that body carb or not, if i can bore it i definitely will. she starves pretty hopelessly at around 8k rpms. if i jet it rich enough for high rpm it fouls plugs like crazy no matter what i do with the needle or pilot. how many revs can i squeeze out of her anyhow? the more over rev the better, the diff is geared 13:1...
 

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they make power at like6,500-7,000 max.your revving waay past the peak power,gear it higher and clutch differently if possible if you really want high rpm power you will need twin 38mm carbs, advanced ignition timing and custom high rpm twin pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i know im well out of the power by 8, but i just cant afford gears. its like $300 for a set in these ez-go rear ends. definitely cant fit twin pipes, probably not twin carbs. im not looking for a finely tuned machine, its just a fun budget ride. i think i have spent a total of $500 on this thing.

as far as timing, was that a mistake? i have found straight up timing to over rev much better then advanced, you must have meant to say retard it.
 

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you can change the clutching to bring the rpms down it just wont have a high top speed.just add some wieght in the primary clutch and get some soft springs,it will be cheap and get you in the powerband.then youll be poppin wheelies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i have tried it all with the clutching man, its to the point where it pretty much just instantly goes to the top of its range. i already have cut the spring down to about 1/3 its origional size and added heavier pucks in the primary. the secondary is an ez-go unit and its as loose as she gets, it pretty much just acts like a rag doll and syncs itself with what the primary is doing if that makes any sense to you.

i could try to loosen things up more but i dont know if it will have any ill affects, like maybe less clamping force on the belt at part throttle operation?

in general the clutching on this thing is total crap as it is, the primary is intended to use a 1/4" wider belt then the secondary. so i use a belt that is in between, a little big for the back and a little small for the front. the secondary is probably a different taper then the front too, i think they are supposed to match? overall it just feels like it slips allot until the fronts shut and the backs open.

i have basically accepted the fact that untill i can afford some gears, im just gonna be putting band aids on it to go faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
im seriously considering converting the carb to burn methonal, seems like the cheapest way to get s substantial increase. plus i hear it runs cooler, which would be a big help in Florida heat with a fan motor under the seat of a not so well ventilated golf cart. but im wondering what bad affects it may have on any seals or gaskets in the engine? can you leave methonal sitting in the engine? also will castor oil mix well with it or are there special oils used with alcohol fuels?
 

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im seriously considering converting the carb to burn methonal, seems like the cheapest way to get s substantial increase. plus i hear it runs cooler, which would be a big help in Florida heat with a fan motor under the seat of a not so well ventilated golf cart. but im wondering what bad affects it may have on any seals or gaskets in the engine? can you leave methonal sitting in the engine? also will castor oil mix well with it or are there special oils used with alcohol fuels?
no you can't leave it sitting in the motor, it will absorb moisture and rust out the motor. Castor is good, gaskets and seals should be okay.

the common misconception with alky is that it's cheaper. that is way wrong, it may be cheaper per gallon, but remember your dumping twice the fuel in, it aint cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
oh, i actually assumed it was more expensive for the fuel itself, i meant it was cheap in the sense that you dont have to really buy any hard parts. how much does it cost per gallon anyhow, would my local drag strip have it? how do you avoid letting it sit in the engine?

and when everyone refers to "alcohol" are we just talking about methanol since its a type of alcohol or is there a different fuel everyone uses?
 

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theyre refering to methanol when they say alcohol.i used to get it for 5-6$ a gollon,main jet will need to be about 2x as big,when your done riding you will need to drain the carbs of alcohol and run it on a rich mixture of gas and oil or what i always did was spray fogging oil or wd40 in the carbs with the motor running to load it up with oil real good.
 
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