Everything2Stroke Forum banner

41 - 52 of 52 Posts

·
2 stroke thinker
Joined
·
2,062 Posts
As for today's 2 stroke oils... they are much better than years ago... with some, mostly synthetic you can run up to 50-1 in a 2 stroke engine.. crazy huh?

zuki's recommended 24-1 back in the day but the oils have improved due to technology and additves that they put in them.

The dents in certain spot of the frame ... they were designed from the factory for easy bolt access. so don't be alarmed if you see one that is in the path of a bolt.
 

·
2 stroke thinker
Joined
·
2,062 Posts
Any of you folks who are yearning to learn more about welding; Enroll in a TIG-MIG welding class at your local community college. Years ago when I bought my first wire welder which is still going strong after some forty years, I took the class at the night school program. For a few dollars & a lot of new friends, go for it, you won’t be disappointed.
John, I'm good at MIG welding but want to learn TIG welding.

Tried it with a cheap tig without the pedal but couldn't get the hang of it...gonna take your advice about the nite class if I'm not too tired from a hectic day at work..
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,500 Posts
The trick with a TIG torch is NEVER DIP THE TUNGSTEN INTO THE PUDDLE. Any of you welders can comment on this. Somehow when the tip is dipped, it sucks up the aluminum like a magnet. Our first welder didn’t have a foot pedal either. If the buzz box is turned up it’s easier to get the arc started.

On oil mix; remember when you shut off the throttle you are shutting off your oil flow. Remember this when going down a long hill. You can hear a seasoned rider down a long hill by hearing how they cycle the throttle to keep the oil flowing. A lot of riders will seize an engine on a long hill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Allrighty then, picked up an impact screw driver and got the screws to check out kick start gears and timing. Is removing those screws all that I have to do? Then use a little screw driver to get the case to pull away from the rest of the engine? Heating up with a hair dryer help? Don't have a heat gun. Going to continue to gently work on it, not sure it's ever been off.

Just to be sure I'm working with the correct side of the engine, we're talking water pump side correct? With this portion of the case removed I can check the timing marks on the gears in there? Lol pretty sure that's correct but never bad to triple check.

Here she is....that ugly ass painted radiator, that's gonna be gone by the end of this hehe. Pardon the mess, gotta work with what ya got.

IMG_1820.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
OK actually got the cover off, and she appears to be timed but...three dots, two appear to be on the same gear and the third on it's own all line up just past top dead center. Also the little clutch push piece that comes out of the clutch bell it's just flopping loose in there. It's the part that the clutch cable actuates from the outside. Have a bad feeling this part shouldn't just be hanging loose like it is. Aside from this little pusher shaft being free to flop about everything else looks really really good (of course without having removed the clutch bell can't be sure of it's internals), hadn't had any issues with the clutch really. Kick start assembly looks really good too and I would have bet something was off (a broken tooth perhaps).

Guess I'll have to get that "special tool" the manual keeps calling for lol, to get the clutch bell off. FYI, if your having an issue with the clutch cover pulling away from the engine, the actuator (clutch push shaft) connects to the shaft from the clutch cable rod inside the housing and they were latched together. Turning the rod end (that pokes out of cover that the clutch cable connects to) counterclockwise a bit freed em and this let me pull the cover the rest of the way off. Manual doesn't mention this, Clymers probably does. Still concerned about the push rod which I mentioned is just flopping about. Here's a pic of what I'm referring to, called the "pusher piece" in the service manual.

IMG_1823.JPG

Initially I thought it was bent then I poked at it and found it to be completely loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Well, I don't see a need for any "special tools" to remove the clutch housing (the bell) just 5 nuts and I believe spring's behind those washers, gonna remove that quick and take a look...

Scratch that. Definitely need something to keep the clutch from spinning while trying to loosen the bolts. Any DIY suggestions? Jam a screw driver in the gears? Kidding. Damn you special tool!

:Blackeye:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
Unfortunately I don't have an impact gun yet. Might have read that about the penny somewhere. Will give that a careful go.

On a different note one of the damn screws for the clutch cover was bent a good bit (not by me) can't believe someone put it back in like that, pretty stupid.

A buddy of mine went to this Genoa Jamboree over the weekend (rides a Raptor). I was supposed to be there with him riding my 250. He said there were like 6 lt250's out there and one in particular (named Sexy Bitch) was killin it, fastest quad out there in the drag races (on sand). God I wish I could have been there! Guess I'm gonna have to get some paddles for a future trip to this place.
 

·
2 stroke thinker
Joined
·
2,062 Posts
If you load the motor into you truck and goto a local gas station or repair center, I'm sure they will be happy to asst you getting the nut off of the clutch basket. Don't try loosening it using a screwdriver between the clutch basket tabs or piller looking things because they will break! the center pin is supposed to be loose and don't loose that little roller bearing between the pin and clutch hub
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
So don't use a penny? Hehe, haven't done anything else since I last, haven't removed the pressure plate. May not even pull the pressure plate off, clutch is good. Replacing all of the philips head case screws with polished stainless allen heads and waiting on those. Just got the cylinder, piston, and gasket/seal kit, ohh and new boyesen reeds. Man the new bore on the cylinder is a beautiful thing, just want to stare at it...and the piston, sexy. The new piston isn't the one with the "power ports" (believe that's what they are) just above the wristpin holes but I'm not concerned about that. She'll be running next weekend! Yeah baby!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Damn. Was cleaning the swing-arm and rear sprocket up and found a substantial crack in one of the small front carriers. Did some research and others have had this happen as well. They compress the "tube" to close the gap and weld/patch, gtg more or less. I do have an '87+ swingarm (not exactly sure of the year but not 85,86) that would need some serious tlc and also has a crack albeit thinner, in the same exact place. While I was inspecting both the '86 swing-arm and '87+ I noticed about a one inch notch basically right in the center of the hub, WTF? Was this originally intended as an anchor for a tool to remove bearings or......? The notch goes at least half way through/into the wall of the hub and has to have weakened the shit out of it. No option but to clamp it down, weld the crack, patch it and replace the bearings. Hopefully turns out good thank GOD a-arms are pretty simple, just need to be precise. All else fails I did find some guys who are still making replacements. Gotta call em to find out specifics on the front carrier hubs and rear carrier cause if I'm not mistaken you have to use banshee internals? Here's a link...

http://metaltechproducts.com/Custom_Swingarm.htm

Anyone have experience with this outfit? Still, may end up making my own. Have someone CNC the carriers though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Well hello hello. Ben awhile since I've updated you all and I'm super stoked to say that she is running again. Swing arm repaired too. Currently in the process of breaking in the new piston and rings. Feels so good to have done all of this work and have her start right up. All gaskets replaced, reeds replaced, new piston and bore, carb rebuilt. All smiles here. Learned so much from this forum and everyone that chimed in on my thread, seriously you guys were a huge help. Taking Full Metal Suzi (that's her name ; ) out to the atv park this weekend for some leisurely riding. Woot!
 
41 - 52 of 52 Posts
Top