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Discussion Starter #1
i was ridin around my house and when i slammed the throttle it started to cut out then i lost all power completely. i tried kicking it over but no good. then i tried pop starting it ( i know i shouldnt but it was a nice day). still nothing happened. does anyone know what my issue might be? oh and i just got a new plug so...please help, i dont want to have to ride my 4 poke. :p
 

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2 stroke thinker
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it could be a couple of things, did you take the plug out and check for spark?
It could be a fuel issue but most likely if it had compression somewhere in the ignition system could be the problem.
2 common problems with the Lt 250 are: ignition pick up or ignition stator coil.
Also, a sheared flywheel key could cause a no start problem.

Check for spark and let us know!
 

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do a leak test! (don't try to make it run by pop start it)

check yur reeds!

check compression!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
how would i check these things. i have a general knowledge thats it. disassembly is a bit over my head im lucky i got it back together after i my restoration
 

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Sounds electrical (ground, source coil, flywheel key, wire loose or broke). Or you lost compression ( ring or air leak). Check for spark, and see if your plug is wet with fuel - then you can rule out carb and spark.
 

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how would i check these things. i have a general knowledge thats it. disassembly is a bit over my head im lucky i got it back together after i my restoration
BASICLY!
reeds you just pull yur reed cage and if yur reed pedals are busted or have excessive space between the pedal and the cage (more then a couple mm is too much space)

to do a leak test you need to plug yur exhaust port with a pvc expanding plug, leave yur spark plug in and compress 10 psi of air in yur cylinder while spraying soapy water on yur motor n pay attention to the sealed areas for air leaking...if you loose more than 1 psi per minute then something needs to get some attention.

a compression tester jus goes in yur plug hole and you kick it over a few times to get an average reading on a tire guage like tool (not sure how much psi your quad should be reading)
 

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Search the forum for "leakdown test". You can build your own for under $30. I don't recommend using an air compressor. Find a hand pump type. Remember to block the crankcase vent hose. And the powervalve may need to be rotated by hand to block air flow.

Compression testers are cheap. I got mine at Harbor Freight for $9.99. With the tester installed (in spark plug hole)...turn off the fuel, hold the throttle wide open, and kick 5-6 times hard. Make 'em count!

Get yourself a decent electrical meter that's capable of resistance and continuity. You can check all of the electronics in place without unbolting anything. Use the wire diagram in the manual and touch the wire connector ends with the probes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i'm gonna have my bud swing down tomorrow with his compression tester we'll check that then i'll see if he can do a leak test with me
 

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I agree with most of what was said here but check the easy stuff first, compression, electrical and the flywheel key. Just because it sparks doesn't mean that it is sparking at the right time. If the key sheared and the flywheel moved a little then it threw the timing off, it will still spark but not when it should.

I doubt that an air leak would make your quad stop running but it's good to check anyways so that you don't fry the top end. You do NOT want to block off the crankcase breather when you test it. If you block that breather and the right side crank seal is bad you will pass the test and have no idea that it is leaking. If you do the test and the breather is where the air is escaping then you need to replace that crank seal.
 

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I agree with most of what was said here but check the easy stuff first, compression, electrical and the flywheel key. Just because it sparks doesn't mean that it is sparking at the right time. If the key sheared and the flywheel moved a little then it threw the timing off, it will still spark but not when it should.

I doubt that an air leak would make your quad stop running but it's good to check anyways so that you don't fry the top end. You do NOT want to block off the crankcase breather when you test it. If you block that breather and the right side crank seal is bad you will pass the test and have no idea that it is leaking. If you do the test and the breather is where the air is escaping then you need to replace that crank seal.
x2...but i will add that i have blew my base gasket and she bogged to a hault.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
but i will add that i have blew my base gasket and she bogged to a hault
thats like what happened with mine. i dont think reeds would hafve anything to do with this correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
how would i check the flywheel key? is it easy to get to or does half my quad have to be taken apart before i get close to finding it?
 

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..You do NOT want to block off the crankcase breather when you test it. If you block that breather and the right side crank seal is bad you will pass the test and have no idea that it is leaking. If you do the test and the breather is where the air is escaping then you need to replace that crank seal.
Really? Thinking of my '87 Zilla engine...I need to look at it again...
 

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To check the flywheel key, take the side cover off that says "SUZUKI" and remover the crank nut that holds the flywheel on. Note: one of the crank nuts are reverse thread, I cannot remember if it is the flywheel side or the clutch side off hand....
You should be able to look at the threads sticking out to tell.

Then very carefully tap the flywheel with a wood block or rubber hammer to loosen it. (its pressed on the crank because the crank is tapered) its not too hard to remove though...

Once the flywheel is removed, you will be able to tell if the KEY is sheared.

Let us know....
 

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Yeah, you don't want to block it on a zilla engine either, same setup. If you think about it the right hand crank seal is exposed to the crankcase oil so if it leaks it will push air into the crankcase. If all of your seals are good, shift shaft, clutch lever, sprocket shaft, etc. the only place it has to go is out the breather.

The left hand crank seal is different, it isn't exposed to the oil. If it leaks it would leak out of the stator cover gasket or the rubber seal where the wiring exits the stator cover.

Also, I don't recommend trying to remove the flywheel with anything but a flywheel puller. If you have any friends with a 2 stroke most of them are the same. If not they are only 15 bucks on ebay. If you take the nut off you might be able to see if it is line up with the keyway or not without pulling but I can't say for sure.
 

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thats like what happened with mine. i dont think reeds would hafve anything to do with this correct?
yur reeds will cause it to bog to a hault! if u try to pop start it, it will run like a scolded dog wot but, as soon as u slow in the lower rpm's, it will bog again n die (don't try to make it run) you will jus lean it out and find yourself purchasing a top end.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
so i did my comp test and it read 120-130psi so i was relieved and i did find out what was wrong. it was a simple problem and i sound stupid but im glad it was only a simple fix rather than a lengthy costly one. it turns out my fuel cock was plugged with some stupid thing my bro put in there when i took it apart for painting. runs fine now but recently broke my throttle cable. gunna head down to troy city garage for a new one today
 

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You shouldn't be relieved at getting 120-130 psi on a compression check, that's time for a rebuild. Glad you got it running again though.
 
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