Everything2Stroke Forum banner

41 - 60 of 63 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
The rod ill move side to side but no play up and down
Okay, I'll try doing it the way you told me. There's really no way to tell how the bearings are without splitting the motor is there? I am in a pickle idk what I should do, spend the money now or wait and spend the money later to have the lower worked on.
 

·
2 stroke thinker
Joined
·
2,062 Posts
It may be a possibility that the crank might hafta be rebuilt being the piston is stock...your reeds....are they stainless steel or fiberglass, carbon fiber? stainless steel was factory.. once cleaned...you hafta check up and down play on the crank and rotating smoothness.

You can get away with cleaning the bottom end with what I explained earlier.
Cast pistons are more common to crack or blow apart being that the are not forged.
You need to see if the upper rod thrust washers between the upper rod and piston are intact and not worn or blown apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
It may be a possibility that the crank might hafta be rebuilt being the piston is stock...your reeds....are they stainless steel or fiberglass, carbon fiber? stainless steel was factory.. once cleaned...you hafta check up and down play on the crank and rotating smoothness.

You can get away with cleaning the bottom end with what I explained earlier.
Cast pistons are more common to crack or blow apart being that the are not forged.
You need to see if the upper rod thrust washers between the upper rod and piston are intact and not worn or blown apart.
It moves back and forth smoothly I haven't tried to spin it all the way around. I will have to look at the reeds tomorrow, I don't believe they are steel. I was told those were replaced at one point in time. I think when the carb was rebuilt. I'll check tho. I was going to get new washers and wrist pin bearings.
 

·
2 stroke thinker
Joined
·
2,062 Posts
I suppose even tho I haven't...but you'll hafta use air gun to get the water out and then use a lubricant so the bearings don't get rusty..I'm just thinking that if you use too much water pressure it may push some metal debris in between the crank seals...Be careful ! Being that the amount of crankcase pressure during a typical run cycle, you may be okay but ... I'd pick up a couple of cans of brake or carb. cleaner and use that first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Okay. I'm going to give it a shot without the pressure washer, I have a connection for my hose that is a low pressure style pressure washer.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,500 Posts
It worked for him; for you, who knows my customer took a chance, you might also. Non of us wants you to have a problem from cutting corners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
I'm still in contemplation of what I plan on doing as far as the bottom end of the engine goes. How does one disconnect the electrical from the engine? I have the book and it doesn't tell one on how to disconnect it.
 

·
2 stroke thinker
Joined
·
2,062 Posts
follow the wires up under the gas tank, you might have to remove it for better access which means you'll hafta remove the front fender.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
To remove the chain, you can use the master link OR use the carrier tensioner thing....lol pardon my super technical terms, is the big round disc in the middle of your axle. First loosen the carrier clamp bolts, four of em on the very end of the swing arm. Notice the holes in the disc I mentioned? Find a big ass allen wrench, the L shaped kind, insert the allen wrench into the hole and turn the disc towards the front of the bike. Now remove your chain. You tighten the chain in the opposite, lock in place with the carrier clamp. Also, you need to run .8 to 1 inch of slack in the chain, at least with stock sprockets and chain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Fyi, if you cannot rotate the axle carrier using a big ass allen wrench an equally large pipe wrench or channel locks will do the trick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Should also mention that when you put a chain back on and your tightening the clamp bolts, 4 I mentioned earlier, start with two of the same bolts (in same position on each side of the carrier) go back and forth snugging them equally to about half of the suggested torque, then do the next two in the same manner. Now proceed to torque to spec in the same fashion, meaning don't torque one of the bolts all the way down then the next...16.5-24 ft/lbs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
Sweet thanks for all of the advice I got the engine out. NOW I've run into a even bigger problem. I started cleaning out my crank case, the crank was moving perfectly fine and then all of the sudden it wouldn't budge. I think there is some small pieces of metal between the two. What is the easiest way to get the crank to move again other than splitting the engine. If I have to split the engine how hard is that to do? I contacted a mechanic in my area and he told me that I could do it myself even without a engine splitter.
 
41 - 60 of 63 Posts
Top