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Discussion Starter #1
I have a chance to get a lt250r but it needs the clutch basket put in. How difficult is this? I know you have to grind rivets and press fit some stuff right? Its a good deal I just want to be sure this is something fairly easily fixed and from what I've seen it is
 

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Replacing a clutch basket is pretty easy
You mentioned grinding rivets, so I assume you're wanting to sperate the basket from the gear. I haven't done that but I can't imagine it being very difficult. I have to wonder though, why not just get a used complete clutch basket that's in good shape?
if it only needs clutch work I'd jump on it. And replace the crank seal while I'm in there
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got the quad today. The clutch basket is already replaced, everything just needs to be put back together. What is there besides the cover? I haven't really looked at it, just brought it home at 10pm so I'll be working on it tomorrow. Any help is appreciated, thanks
 

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Do up some pics so we can see
You might want to check if the water pump leaks before you put it on by filling it with water and looking for drips from the weep hole
. also what year did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The engine at least is an 88. Everything goes together, just have to run to Magic Racing for the gasket. I'm just having a problem with the kickstarter though. I'm trying to compression check. I put everything together put the cover on and then I put the kick start lever on. It will kick a couple times then it siezes up and nothing wants to move. So I have to take everything apart and reinstall then I get a couple kicks and then it stops again. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
it wont turn at all. I cant even turn it over with a breaker bar, the nut just turns. I think the kick starter gear is hitting the side of the case
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Additionally my clutch still doesn't work. When I pull it feels more like I'm just bending the lever. I reinstalled everything to torque according to the manual. Is it the little gear thing in the cover misaligned? How do I align it?
 

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Feeling as though you're bending the lever instead of actuating the clutch is probably caused by not lining up the inner pressure plate correctly. Did it seem like you were squashing the clutch springs down more than they should?
There's a ridge on the outside of the pressure plate that should drop into the inner hub


Also did you try turning the engine by the wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I got the gear to finally stop hitting the plate so now i can crank it enough to check compression. I'm only getting 50psi cold (75 after putting a little oil in) so I think I need rings. I believe the pressure plate is in place though. I'll have to double check
EDIT: missing the thrust bearing on the clutch. Have to get one
 

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Yeah. Kinda low on compression there.
Did you get the clutch working? Its very easy to put the pressure plate in wrong. Ask me how I know...
You could need more than just rings. You'll want to measure the piston and cylinder to check the skirt clearance

Also, you wouldn't happen to have bought this in Michigan did you?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Should it still start with that low of compression? My dad thinks the timing could be off.
The clutch I need to order the thrust bearing.
I haven't opened it at all yet, hopefully my cylinder isn't destroyed, but what should the clearance be?
I got it in Lansing.
 

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Did it have a spotted seat cover woth some rips and come with another basket case with black plastic?
If so I was actually considering getting that

No it probably won't run with that low of compression. Usually the rule of thumb is you need at least 90 psi for it to run.
It is possible for the flywheel key to get sheared off. Should check that and replace that crank seal too

If its got a wiseco piston in it it should have .002-.003" clearance. I think the old wiseco pistons called for .003" but newer ones call for less- might be wrong on that.
Either way that's something you'll need to know as running too large of skirt clearance can cause the piston to slap around in the cylinder and eventually break part of the skirt off if not taken care of


The clutch should still work without that thrust bearing if its put together correctly. Obviously should not be run without it though.

:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah it did, the other basket case is for parts now lol

Not sure what all that means but I'll read into the manual. Why would the flywheel key be sheared? It cranks?

If everything looks okay, should I still replace the piston and the rings? Or just the rings?

Then I must have something messed up. I read somewhere the gear in the cover might not be meshing properly. How do I line that up? The pressure plate seems to have seated and the bolts are torqued to 6nm as per manual but I can check that again
 

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Flywheel keys can shear from not tightening the nut on the flywheel tight enough, or there being a surface imperfection on the end of the crank. Usually just from not tight enough.


As for clutch: when you say "the gear in the cover" do you mean the shaft that drops into the clutch cover from the top, or the little toothed thing sticking out of the middle of the pressure plate?
The cover can't go on without that little toothed thing being lined up right so that's got to be OK.
As for pressure plate alignment, you will probably have to take the bolts back out and rotate the pressure plate. You should be able to see how it goes togethet if you look at the inner hub and back of the pressure plate. It should drop in a bit farther than it did before


As for piston, you really need to measure before you decide what to do. You may be able to get away with new rings only or you might be in need of new piston and bore job. Will have to see what its like before you pull the trigger on either.


Also, good tip here, I recommend getting some three bond 1104 or 1194 crankcase sealant for when you replace top end gaskets. Some orf that applied to top end gaskets is cheap insurance against leaks and has been recommended by a certain engine builder on here that I can't remember
 

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A couple things here, first, do not kick the engine over again. There's a good chance that the washers that go over the wristpin inside the piston broke and trashed your cylinder with the compression being that low. Repeatedly kicking it over with those pieces bouncing around can cause serious damage. Get that cylinder off and find out what's going on there. If there is any doubt have a shop measure it and use the upgraded washers when you put it back together, whether the old ones were broke or not. The only place I really use sealant (ultra-grey usually) is on the base gasket where the case halves meet.

Not sure what's up with your clutch, you must have something put together wrong if your cable isn't froze. Make sure you have the washer between the basket and inner hub. That won't cause the problem you're having but it will cause the clutch not to work because the basket and hub won't want to spin separately. I try to not use any sealant on the clutch cover so that if I need to take it off I can reuse the gasket.
 

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Those dents in the head are either from a ring shattering, or the connecting rod big end bearing coming apart, going up through the transfer ports to the top of the piston then trying to be combusted. Could possibly be caused by the thrust washers too though not as likely

The side shot of the piston kinda looks like it's got the "4 corner seize" going on. Looks like it's been overheated at one time or was ran with too tight clearance.
I gotta say I've cleaned up and used pistons in worse shape than that just for a short time, but Is that still a stock size piston?
If it is I'm gonna guess the bore is probably pretty worn by now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The rings are still there and if the bearing you're referring to is the one at the wrist pin then that also is intact. However I found no thrust washers. So that may be it. I read a bit and I found that people usually still run heads like that. Do you think it's still usable?
As far as thrust washers missing does that mean I have to split my case and clean the bottom end out?
I'm not sure it's stock, I believe so but I have to check. I'll get the digital calipers out tomorrow and go through everything
 
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