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I have tried everything to get my 01 banshee 350 to run after top end rebuild. cleaned carbs, new gas n plugs. have adjusted the fuel air screw, now its back firing. it will start for a second if i hold the throttle wide open, then it will idle by pumping the throttle a lil bit then it dies. there is also some gas coming out of the over flow hoses from both carbs more from one, pretty sure the floats are good though. also when it does start one pipe is blowing more smoke than the other. Please help going crazy!!!!
 

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dude gotta get the floats set first, what kinda carbs? what did you turn the airscrew out too? what jet sizes for your pilot and main? whats your compression?did you do a leak down?if your carbs are stock did you replace the choke interconnect tube?
 

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everything is stock, carbs are synced, inter connect tube is on, gonna check compressoin today but seems good by just putting finger over them. did adjust the air screw, started at 1.5 and then tried it at 2. what is a leakdown test??? also what is the easiest way check and set floats?
 

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i think we may be on to something here.
not sure what is the best way to do a leak test on a shee but, an air leak will certainly make it back fire. (dont try to make it run yo)
^ Yah don't try to make it run...

This subject came up the other day.
This is what I would do..
Carve out a couple of pieces of wood that will fit in your exhaust ports. Rub a bit of silicone around them so you make a good seal. (Drive them bad boys in there)
For the intake side you might have to get creative.. But Plug them off too.

From what I've heard it's best to pump air in threw the intake. I'm sure you could rig some kind of deal up to pump some air in it.
But IMO, instead of timing the bleed down process, and looking at pressure loss. I would just take a squirt bottle with some water, and dish soap to find possible leaks.. Just squirt it all over the place and watch for bubbles. :NodYes:

A lot of guys might think that's dumb, but it'll find the leaks.. lol
 

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plug your exhaust ports with a couple pvc expander plugs and you can make a piece of 2 inch pvc with a pvc cap and an air valve adapted to it to go in one of your intakes with the other plugged. i would pump no more than 10 psi in your engine with a bike pump so u dont blow yur seals out. u shouldn't loose more than 1 psi in a minute once u fall below 5 psi, if u don't get that result or better than u should find out where the air is escaping.

this is a pic of my leak tester for my blaster (hope it helps)
 

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plug your exhaust ports with a couple pvc expander plugs and you can make a piece of 2 inch pvc with an air valve adapted to it to go in one of your intakes with the other plugged
Yah PVC might work abit better than wood huh... lmfao

I'm a poor, cheap ass.. I'll do stuff like that with what I have lay'n around. :D
 

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Yah PVC might work abit better than wood huh... lmfao

I'm a poor, cheap ass.. I'll do stuff like that with what I have lay'n around. :D
ive heard of guys using their rubber boots off their front bumper to plug the ports lol...nothing wrong with bein crafty bud :thumbsup:
 

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If you find out you have an air leak while doing the test...the soapy water mentioned earlier will work well to find the leaks. Cover the clyinders with soapy water and you'll find it blowing bubbles somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so tomarrow gonna do a real compression check, i really dont think i have an air leak unless that would cause the backfiring.

when i rebuilt the top end i did go the next bore size, does this usually require any adjustments to the carb or anythig?


it makes me mad cause all did was rebuild the top end you would think if I put everything back together right it should run right. now all shit has hit the fan. As of right now everythig is in pieces agian.

any help of what to try or where to start would be great, cause the next step is put all back together clean as ever and see what happens this time.

thanks for all the help so far it has helped
 

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so tomarrow gonna do a real compression check, i really dont think i have an air leak unless that would cause the backfiring.

when i rebuilt the top end i did go the next bore size, does this usually require any adjustments to the carb or anythig?


it makes me mad cause all did was rebuild the top end you would think if I put everything back together right it should run right. now all shit has hit the fan. As of right now everythig is in pieces agian.

any help of what to try or where to start would be great, cause the next step is put all back together clean as ever and see what happens this time.

thanks for all the help so far it has helped
Well you do know that even a very small air leak can mess shit up right??

But I suggest checking your plug gaps. Maybe even your sparks strength (if you have a voltage meter), It could even be as simple as a bad ground on your coil or CDI.. Did you clean the crap out of your carbs 2?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
small air leak huh did find my exhaust was a lil loose, could that be a factor?

checked plug gaps, might try a hotter plug tom. maybe a 7 have 8's right now, and will def check the grounds.
 

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small air leak huh did find my exhaust was a lil loose, could that be a factor?

checked plug gaps, might try a hotter plug tom. maybe a 7 have 8's right now, and will def check the grounds.
loose exhaust wouldnt do that but a cracked intake tube, leaky cylinder gasket, leaky crank seals, leaky head gasket, leaky intake gasket, busted reeds etc will.
 

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This the leak down test equipment I put together for our T4s. The intake side is capped and sealed PVC with a valve stem sealed in it. The exhaust side is an appropriately sized rubber freeze plug. Works great and priced right.



 

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Since you just rebuilt the top end, did you torque the cylinders down in the correct pattern and to the correct specs?
 

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if your bike is backfiring, then you need to check on them reeds for sure now. they dont like bacwards airmovement too much. also, if you set your float height on your carbs, and you still have gas leaking out the overflow, then your floar needles are bad, or the needle seats are still dirty and it's not closing the fuel off all the way.
 
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