Everything2Stroke Forum banner

161 - 174 of 174 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Rogue! Nice to see you back on one of the 500 forums. Saw a guy on a dirtwheels post on Facebook claiming your Zilla as his on Friday 12/12. Glad to hear your back is doing better and you still have the 500 in the stable, always loved your bike and really appreciate your help with the rendering you did for me to help me pick colors for my build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter #162 (Edited)
Too funny Buckeye. I could not find the dirtwheels post.... thought I would troll him a little :D

This season looks to be more of a quad season, so I've been giving my Zilla some love.

I was not maintaining my raw pipe good enough, so I decided to get it ceramic coated:



Removed the plastics, removed the head and cylinder for inspection. Looks good. Removed the shocks and sent them off to get rebuilt, revalved, and resprung.

Thought since I bought a bunch of stuff new when building my Zilla in 2010, that I would finish the updates on the controls. First up was the OEM light/kill switch looking 27 years old, so I researched and found that the 1986 TRX250 light/kill switch was also a 6 wire setup and you can still buy these brand new (got mine for $50 delivered)





I used a Metra-pak 150 6way connector for the connections. Initial testing looks good light on/off and hi/lo work as expected.

So now my wiring for my quad matches this diagram:



Also replaced the ODI Rogue grips as mine were worn down. First time I used grips so much over several years that they were partially warn out.

Repainted the cylinder and R&Red the powervalve (double o-ringed) to make sure everything looks good.

Bump steer mod was done (don't know why it took so long for me to finish this one).

Carb was torn down as I wanted to record the current setup. So its all cleaned and ready to go.

Current settings:

Carb: TM38-85 (flat slide) modified by HPR. Taper bored to 41mm.
Needle: 6DK3, 4th position (richer)
Pilot: 30
Main: 620
Air Screw: 2 turns out

VF2 Reeds were showing signs of wear as they had a 'stress' line diagonally from each reed corner going inward to the middle of the reed cage.... weird. Replaced these with new reeds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter #163 (Edited)
Hmm, in the last 4 weeks or so, I've done some changes.

Lonestar Racing anti-vibe +1 +1 steering stem with the Precision Shock & Vibe bar mounts.







ASV F3 shorty lever on a Z400 Front Master Perch



ASV F3 Clutch Shorty Lever & TRX250R Lighting switch



Tie Rod modification. This is moving the spindle steering arm from the top side to the bottom of the mount. Reduces bump steer.

Camber modification. I am setting this up for 4-5 degrees negative camber. Found that my All Balls lower ball joint boots where ripped and they were pretty loose too. Ordered a new set of OEM ball joints (since they seem to last the longest).

ASM ProX Tie rods. These are nice tie rods with heim ends. Ordered the stock length, but with the tie rod mod, I don't like the number of threads outside of the ends, so I'm switching to a +1 set.



Fuel Tank mount modification. Since the stainless steel bolts galled and broke the front tank mounts, I changed the way the fuel tank mounts in the front.









FCI Intake modification. Saw another person that modified a FCI Intake for the Quadzilla, so I thought I would try it out and see if there is any differences in power. This is the YFZ450 intake w/4.5" ID filter. I stretched out the carb side from 50mm to 57mm to match the carb intake diameter. Still finishing up the holder mounting.





Custom Axis shocks re-installed. These were rebuilt and revalved. Running 275lb spring on the rear and 200lb springs on the front.





Cylinder all cleaned up and ready for the Cool Head when I get it back from HPR.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter #164
Well after a couple rides with the new stem and rebuilt suspension, the quad rides pretty nice. I never made it over to Jerry Hall's shop in Arizona, so I swapped back to my stock intake boot with the 4x6 filter.

Quad worked well and we completed a 57 mile day on 11/14. Here are a few riding videos showing us going from the Keyhole camping area over to Hills 6 & 7 and then riding around that area.




Sand was very soft and technical out there. Had to drive down the hills as you just wanted sink. Here you can see some of the sand pouring down the hill:



The next day, we were loading up and that is when we noticed my sprockets were starting to curve and my chain was 'stretched' a bit.

13/40 sprockets worked great out there for me, so I just finished installing a new set of sprockets and new chain.

Next trip out will be New Years, so I'm going up on my pilot to a 32.5 and my main to a 700. I'm pretty sure the pilot will be OK, but that main might be too rich. I'll do my final tuning when I'm out there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter #167
Well, its been just over a month since my last post on my build thread.

I was out at Glamis for New Years. My quad was pretty rich on my jetting (modified TM38 w/680 main), coolant was around 140-180 (from my Trail Tech Vapor), one pass down the drags on Friday night and at the end I noticed my engine didn't want to drop RPM's to idle.... the quad acted like it was lean and the RPM's wanted to race. I pulled to the side of the drags and shut it down.

Then I noticed this:


(You can see grey RTV around the cylinder nut covering a pin hole leak that I found.)

Last weekend I had a chance to pull the cylinder and look at the damage. That is when we found a broken case:



It looks like the cylinder cracked right around the reinforced ear all the way up to the intake. When the engine was running it lifted the right side of the cylinder putting pressure on the left side case rear cylinder stud and snap.... it broke.

The piston and rod doesn't have any heat or detonation damage.

I'm in the process now of hunting down a new case and getting ready to send off the cylinder for repair.

Bummer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Dude that sucks! Just what welding those ears is supposed to prevent. Didn't Mike do that for you? I'd be interested in what he had to say about the break. Friggin cases are getting expensive, good luck finding a nice set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter #169
I have not contacted Mike yet, but plan on running it by him.

After talking with Jerry Hall, he said that he has seen this situation a few times. It happens when the ear reinforcement is not carried up to the top of the intake. My friend has this done by Hall and it does look much stronger in this area.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,688 Posts
ohh man that frigging blows!! good luck getting her fixed….
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Love the walk-thru of your updates. So nice to see some fresh ideas with modern parts!! Many thanks!!!

Total bummer on the broken case! :Blackeye: I haven't had a chance to run my engine with the Mike-ear-job.

I've got an engine for sale in the classifieds. Make me an offer on all or just the bare necessities required. Jug is at 89.50mm, but its got life left...and its already p-coated black! lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter #172
Love the walk-thru of your updates. So nice to see some fresh ideas with modern parts!! Many thanks!!!

Total bummer on the broken case! :Blackeye: I haven't had a chance to run my engine with the Mike-ear-job.

I've got an engine for sale in the classifieds. Make me an offer on all or just the bare necessities required. Jug is at 89.50mm, but its got life left...and its already p-coated black! lol
Thanks for the offer, but I don't want to hold or sell the left over parts. Looking to get away with a left side engine case. I can get it machined flat and I already have all new OEM bearings and seals ready to drop in.

My buddy already has a full second Zilla and another full engine on top of that. Worse comes to worse, I can run that full engine. He has more room (bachelor) then I do at my house for extra stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter #173
Well not much of an update, but here goes.

Sent of my cracked cylinder to Jerry Hall to be welded and have the rear ears re-enforced his way. Also, picked up a set of cases off fleabay for under $300, so now need to rebuild my bottom end, replace my front wheel bearings (as my wheels can be rocked from side to side... stupid All-Balls bearings... tip: stay OEM on bearings), and get my frame re-pained where I've cleaned up some areas.

Hope to have my Zilla running again before July or so. Uggg, a labor of love :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Well not much of an update, but here goes.

Sent of my cracked cylinder to Jerry Hall to be welded and have the rear ears re-enforced his way. Also, picked up a set of cases off fleabay for under $300, so now need to rebuild my bottom end, replace my front wheel bearings (as my wheels can be rocked from side to side... stupid All-Balls bearings... tip: stay OEM on bearings), and get my frame re-pained where I've cleaned up some areas.

Hope to have my Zilla running again before July or so. Uggg, a labor of love :D
When I had my Zilla I hear ya on the labour but not so much on the love.lol...I,m sticking with the 250,s or hybrids.lol....Yours is one sweet 500 I have to say,just some bad luck on the cylinder.
 
161 - 174 of 174 Posts
Top