Everything2Stroke Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Greetings all. Looking for some help from anyone who is more experienced in wiring than I am. I'm trying to bring back to life a 1978 Yamaha DT175 (my first and only motorcycle). I've got the engine in a lot better shape than it was in and is running well. Now, I'm trying to update the switches due to the old ones being sticky and seemingly not working. Before I get into the details I will say that I've tried posting this thread three times now so if I do not provide enough detail please feel free to ask questions. Also, I want to emphasize the fact that I am a novice and do not know a lot, but I want to learn.

I wanted to give the bike somewhat of a more modern look so I swapped out the old handlebars for some low-rise ProTaper handlebars and bought a new light switch, kill switch, and grips for it. I got the grips on and the Fly Racing Billet kill switch all wired up. I don't know that I wired up the kill switch correctly, but it works. Before the run switch had one wire leading hooking up to two black wires. The billet kill switch came with two wires so what I ended up doing was wiring one of the kill switch wires up to the two black wires the old run switch hooked up to and taking the second kill switch wire and wrapping it around a bolt inside the headlight as a ground. I tried multiple combinations of hookups, but grounding the circuit was what was finally able to allow the kill switch to turn off the bike (which led me to believe I wired it somewhat correctly). Of course, I'm open to anyone's suggestions as to whether they think I could have wired this a better way.

The more important wiring issue I've encountered, however, has been wiring the new handlebar switch that houses switches for the headlight, turn signals, and horn. For your info, here is a link to the same universal switch I bought on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/motorcycle-un...-1&keywords=universal+motorcycle+light+switch

For anyone who has looked for or bought a universal light switch, they have probably came across this one. I bought it for its price, its simplistic look, and the fact that it had the switches and horn button that I needed. The only wiring information that came with it is a picture of what wires are meant for specific functions (see the image in the attachments). My naivety led me to be surprised when I received the switch and it had a different adapter from what my old switch hooked up to and the wires were different colors. As a result, I have since tried to read the wiring schematic for my bike and figure out what colors should go to what.

I won't go into the specifics of what works and what doesn't. All I know is that I don't have the confidence that every wire is hooked up to the wire or wires that it should be. I will tell you that I have a new 6v battery for the bike. Before I replaced the switch I could get the high beam headlight to turn on and the running light has a broken filament that needs replaced. With the new switch, the left turn signal light up (but didn't blink) and the right one didn't. I haven't verified if that light is still capable of being lit or if the bulb is burnt. As far as the taillight goes, it is broke and I don't know if that works either.

Again, I want to say that I know some of these lights might need replacing to confirm if wiring is correct. I will ensure in the near future that these are working, but I need the confidence of knowing my wiring is correct and I'm not trying to switch wire to wire hoping that I eventually get it all correct.

This is my first bike and my first time posting a thread to this forum. I'm looking forward to benefiting from the knowledge base out there. Thank you all in advance for your help.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Think I can help you out.

First off - I know you said you would, but you should check all your bulbs before trying to get the wiring right. Bulbs (aside from the headlight) are cheaper than all the beer you're gonna consume while sitting around trying to trace a wiring problem without knowing if your components are good. Bulbs are one of the easier things to test. And test them with power, not just visually. I've seen all sorts of bulbs that looked just fine but wouldn't light because of some broken internal shit.

Ok enough with my BS life coaching and on to your question. The way your turn and headlight switches work is they have a positive power 'input', and toggling the switch 'outputs' power to different circuits.

For example, take a look at that DT175 wiring diagram you posted. On the bottom, the device labeled '21' is your headlight switch. See how in the 'Hi' row of that chart, there's a connection between the 'Y' and 'L' wires? And in the 'Lo' row, there's a connection between the 'L' and 'G'? What that means is that the power 'input' is the 'L' wire (btw Yamaha uses 'L' to denote a blue wire :Dope: ), and the switch toggles the power output between 'Y' and 'G'. Now, with that information, you need to translate that information to the shitty ass wiring diagram that came with your aftermarket switch. Take a look at that. You'll notice that the first 3 items are referring to the headlight. 'head light +' is the power input. 'low beam' is the wire that outputs power to the low beam. Make sense? All of this holds true for the flasher too. You input power to the switch, and then toggle the power between outputting to nothing, or the left or right bulb.

So, now that I've got that explained, here's how to hook your switch up.

Function..........................|.........Wire On Bike...........|............Wire On New Switch |
Headlight Positive in ......|.................Blue.................|..................Blue/White
Headlight Hi Beam..........|.............Yellow.................|......................White
Headlight Low Beam......|...............Green.................|...................Dark blue
Turn Signal Positive in....|..........Brown/white...........|....................... Grey
Turn Signal Right...........|...........Dark Green............|.....................Light Blue
Turn signal Left..............|.............Chocolate............|........................Orange
Horn*.............................|.................Pink..................|....................Light Green
Horn*.............................|.....................E**...............|......................Dark Green


*The horn is does not have a polarity, either wire can be the 'input' and either can be the 'output'

**I don't know what color 'E' is supposed to be. Maybe I'm misreading it on the chart? I had to blow it up to read the letters. Either way, since it's the only unknown, it'll just be whatever wire you have leftover once everything else is hooked up.

Let me know if you have any more wiring questions, I'm glad to help.
-Toby-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
tfray,

Thank you so much for taking the time to explain the wiring and converting the old wiring diagram colors to the new. I've had the bike set aside for the time being as I finish my last semester of college. You can bet I'll be getting it out as soon as I can to finish up the wiring. I'll update you with progress. Thanks again!
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top